Bourgueil

Damp wine cellar, Domaine de la Chevalerie, a half-an-hour drive along the Loire. If you don't say a word, the tipsy owner in gumboots would make you taste every single wine of his. One after another, bottles are opened, dating back the year I was born, and instead of describing the plentiful bouquet, he would rather picture the atmosphere and people best suiting for his Bourgueil.